Play of the Hand Summary

General strategy of playing is: set up tricks early, take tricks late. 

How to set up tricks, and how to know when to switch from setting up to taking is beyond the scope of this guide. This just points out some general conventions and guidelines.

2nd hand low

When your RHO leads, and you can't win the trick, it is rarely correct to play anything other than a low card

3rd hand high

When you partner leads and you can play a higher card than what has already been played, it is rarely correct for you to not play a high card in the suit.

Don't Lead Unsupported High Cards

It is almost never correct to lead a high card when you don't have the one right below it, and there are higher ones still out there.  e,g, if you K53 of a suit, and the A hasn't been played, don't lead the K!

Defense

Sequence conventions

When leading from a sequence (e.g. QJT), lead the top of the sequence (e.g. the Q).  When playing from a sequence, when you haven't led, play the bottom of the sequence (e.g. the T)  Exception - HSBC leads K when holding the AK.

When following low to a suit 

Give count. With an odd number of cards remaining play your lowest. With an even number play something higher.  (note - sometimes it is correct to not do this, if your second lowest card is too high. Use your judgement. 2nd note - this is the HSBC convention, other players do things differently)

Lead through strength

If dummy is to your left, it is typically better to lead suits dummy has high cards in, than suits dummy only has low cards in.  (i.e. you are trying to finesse dummy, not your partner).

Lead up to weakness

If dummy is to your right, it is typically better to lead suits dummy doesn't have high cards in. (i.e. you are trying to finesse declarer, not your partner).

Lead partner's suit

Unless you have a good reason to do otherwise lead partner's suit. (suit they've indicated via the bidding, or by their previous lead). It used to be said that the only reason to not lead partner's suit was if you were void in it, and even that wasn't a great reason. While the truth isn't this extreme, this is an important rule.

Don't lead opponent's suit

When in doubt, lead your best suit. (partially because that tells partner what to lead when they get in).

Don't change suits without a reason. When defense keeps switching what suit they lead, this almost always helps out declarer.

NT specific

Opening lead

Lead your side's suit, not the opponent's suits. I.e. you want to shy away from leading a suit the opps have bid, and you really want to lead a suit your partner has bid. (See rule above about leading partner's suit).

Outside of that, lead your longest suit.

Once you've picked your suit:

  If you have a 3+ card sequence lead the top of the sequence.  (e.g.  Q from QJT53)

  If you have 4+ cards in the suit, lead 4th best.

  If you have 3 cards, lead 3rd best

  If you have only 2, lead your highest.

Exception to above (only in NT), if you are leading from a 3 or 4 card suit where your highest card is the 9 or lower, lead your highest card, not your lowest.

Trump specific

Rule #1 - Don't underlead an ace!  Doing so risks the wrath of the bridge gods, who may commit you to an eternity of hands where your finesses always fail and the trump always split 5-0.  (doesn't apply if you are leading the trump suit)

Rule #2 - Don't lead an ace.

Just don't lead a suit where you have the Ace and not the King. If you feel you must break one of the above rules - break rule 2.

Lead partner's suit. (but try not to break the above rules).

Usually don't lead the opponent's (non-trump) suits.

If you have a suit with AK, lead the K. This is will often be your best opening lead, because you get to maintain control, and get to see dummy before your next action.

When to lead trump on defense is beyond the scope of this guide. Don't be afraid to do it, if you think you have a good reason to do so.

Declarer

When the opening lead is made, make a plan. Even if dummy has a singleton in the suit led, don't call for it until you've made a plan. Making a plan up front, makes it easier to count the suits you need to count, and to make the right play. In general, after making this plan, follow through with it, unless something unexpected happens.  i.e. think more up front, so you can save time later.

No Trump

Count your winners. Do you have enough to make your contract? If not, how can you promote extra winners?

The general strategy in NT is to try and set up a long suit, so that the opponents run out and your small cards in the suit are good. Unless you are worried that the opponents can take too many tricks right away, set up your long suits before winning tricks.

Try to not play your stoppers in the opponents suit. For example if you have

A53   opposite  72

in the suit the opponents lead, you almost always want to duck the first 2 rounds of the suit and not win your ace until the 3rd round. This allows one of the opponents to potentially also run out of the suit, and therefore not be able to lead it if they get in.

Trump

Count your losers. (usually from the perspective of the hand with the longer trump). If you have too many losers, think of ways to get rid of losers. There are two main ways:

Set up a long suit - just like in NT.

Trump losers in the hand that is shorter in trump.  (trumping in the hand that is long doesn't usually gain you tricks, since those trump were going to win anyway. It can be useful transportation, sometimes)

If you don't need your trump for something else, DRAW TRUMP!  Don't carelessly win a couple side aces first. It'd be a real shame if that ace you were counting on got trumped.

Obviously, don't draw trump (or at least too many), if you are planning on trumping losers. How many trump you are going to draw right away should be part of your initial plan you make before playing to the first trick.

Bidding Summary

This is a summary of the HSBC variant of the Standard American system. It doesn't cover everything, and I probably skip over some things. So if you have any questions, please ask them.

Goal 1 - Major game.  8+ card fit and 26 (25?) points.

Goal 2 - 3N.  No major fit and 26 (25?) points

Goal 3 - partscore - best suit (or NT) at cheapest level.

Goal 4 - slam (rarely.)  33+ points and an 8+ card fit - any suit. (Preferably 9+ cards) 37+ points for a grand slam. A good fit and the right distribution can lower these point count dramatically, but if you aren't sure, only look for slam if you think it is reasonable that your side could have 33+ points.

Note - there is no goal of bidding game in a minor. While it is occasionally right to bid a minor game, from a simplification stand point, you can just say you never want to do this.

Opening bids

2C  - 22+ points

2N  - 20-21 and balanced

1N - 15-17 and balanced

Other 1 level openings:

Major opening promises 5 cards.

Minor opening promises 3. (though partner can raise with only 4 if stuck for a bid).

Overcall promises 5+ card (both majors and minors).

Always try to find a major fit, even if you already know about a minor fit. (in competition you may violate this rule)  i.e. if you have 5 diamonds and 4 hearts and your partner opens 1D, you should bid 1H, not 2D. You can always bid diamonds later, if partner doesn't support the hearts.

Responding

Supporting partner, promises 8 card fit. Raise to 2 level shows weak hand (6-10), raise to 3 level shows invitational hand (10-12). Raise to 4 level shows weak hand (5-8?) and good distribution (usually 5 card support for a major, 6 for a minor) plus a side singleton or void.

Bidding a new suit typically promises 4. New suit at the 2 level promises 10+ points.

New suit by responder is forcing, unless it is at the 1 level and responder is a passed hand.

Jump shift  (e.g.  bidding 2S after partner opens 1H) Shows a *really* good hand (typically 18+ points) and a good suit (at least 5 cards). Neither partner may pass below game, and you can't let the opponents play in an undoubled contract.

Rebidding

Rebidding a suit you've already bid almost always shows at least 6. Note, this means that there isn't really a way to show 5 cards (in a minor if you are opener, in anything if you are responder). This actually still works out most of the time.

Bidding a new suit is forcing, unless you are opener and the bid is less than a reverse.

Bidding 1N after a 1 of a suit opener limits your hand. As opener it shows a minimum opener. As responder it shows a minimum response. (6-10)

Competition

When both sides are competing it is usually more important to find the right fit than to bid game. With a good fit you can be more aggressive about bidding than you would without competition. The longer the fit, the more aggressive you can be.

Don't forget about double. If you are ever in a situation where it isn't obvious what you should bid, think if double might be right.

When both sides are bidding remember the rule "The 3 and 5 levels are for the opponents."  For example, your side is bidding clubs, and they are bidding hearts.

1H  2C  2H  3C

3H   P    P    4C

?

The 4C bid is probably a mistake. You might encourage them to bid 4H and make a game they wouldn't have bid. Or maybe they'll double you and set you a bunch. Maybe they would've gotten set in 3H and instead you get set in 4C.

Double

Double is almost always some form of takeout. (Takeout/Negative/Responsive)

Remember that you have to bid even with 0 points, when partner makes a takeout double. e.g.

1H  X  P  ?

Since you could have as few as 0 points, if you actually have some strength (say 8+ points) you need to let partner know by doing something stronger than just bidding a suit at the cheapest level.  (Jump, bid NT, cue bid the opponent's suit)

It is penalty if your side has an agreed upon suit. Some examples:

1H  P    3H  3S

4H  4S    X   P

This is penalty, since you already know what suit you want to play in.

2H  3C  X  P

This is penalty. When you preempt, you have set the suit, so later doubles are penalty.

It is also penalty, if takeout just doesn't make sense, based on the bidding.  Example:

1H  P  3H  P

4H  X

This is penalty, because if this hand wanted to do a takeout double they would have done it the first time.

Pretty much every other double is takeout of some form.

Note - if your partner makes a takeout double, you are always allowed to leave it in. But make sure you are doing it intentionally, not because you don't know what else to do. I.e. if the bid is below game (2D, 3S, etc.) you should be *very* confident you will set the contract to leave the double in.  If the bid is game (4H, 5C, etc.), it is much more likely that you can leave it in. If partner is doubling at this high of a level they have a strong hand. Given this, if you think your side can make, you should bid, but if you are not, it is probably safer to pass.

Note - in a team game, you should only double someone into game if you are confident you can set the contract at least *2* tricks. You can be a little more aggressive with other contracts but you still want to be sure.

doubling into game:  2H doubled is game (since 4H is game) but 1S or 2D doubled is not game (since 2S or 4D is not game

1N responses

When you open 1N, even though you have the strength, your partner is the captain. You've already described your hands and they make the decisions.

When partner opens 1N, there are two questions you want answered. "Do we have enough points for game?" "Do we have a major fit?"

Responses to 1N (make sure you have these memorized)

2C  - Stayman. Asks partner to bid a 4 card major, or bid 2D with no 4 card major. Promises at least 8 points.

2D - Transfer. Tells partner to bid hearts. Promises at least 5 hearts and between 0 and 40 points.

2H - Transfer. Tells partner to bid spades. Promises at least 5 spades and between 0 and 40 points.

If you have a weak hand (less than 8 points) and a 5+ card major, please transfer and don't pass! The weaker your hand, the more important this rule is!

2N - Invitational (8-9 points)

3 of suit - don't make this bid, unless you have had a very specific conversation with your partner about what it means and you are 100% sure they will know what you mean.

3N - to play

4D - Transfer. Tells partner to bid hearts. Promises at least 6 hearts and game values

4H - Transfer. Tells partner to bid spades. Promises at least 6 spades and game values

4N - invitational to slam. This is *NOT* ace asking

If the opponents interfere over the 1N bid, but before you bid, here are my recommendations:

If they double - bid as if they hadn't bid.

If they bid 2C - same, but double if you want to bid Stayman.

Anything else:

   2N / 3N / 4N bids mean the same thing as before (but should show a stopper)

   2 of a suit - I want to play it here.  The 1N opener should pass!

   3 of a major - 5 card suit, 1N opener should either bid 3N or 4 of the major.

   4D or 4H  (if you still had the option of bidding 3 of a major) - transfer bids

   4H or 4S (if you didn't have the option of bidding 3 of a major) - to play.

   X - takeout. With a stopper the 1N bidder should probably consider bidding NT.
   Bidding the opponents suit - Strong and forcing.

   Any other bids - make at your own peril, but presumably natural.

Preempts

If you open with a preempt (2 level, 3 level, 4 level) and partner:

  Raises your suit (to any level) - you should always pass

  Passes - you should always pass

  Bids game (in your suit, 3N, or a different suit (not the opponent's suit)) - you should always pass.

Remember this. When you've preempted, you have described your hand and put your partner in control. Let your partner decide how high to preempt.

The only time you should bid again is if partner bids a new suit below game (natural and forcing) or if partner bids 2N. (asking for a feature. It doesn't come up often, so if you don't know what it means, don't worry about it, unless you're comfortable with everything else in this document.)

When partner preempts

If you think you can make game - bid it.

If you have a strong hand, but aren't sure about game, either bid 2N (asking for a feature) or bid your own 5 card suit, naturally.
You *cannot* invite in partners suit. Raising their bid to 3 is *NOT* invitational. They *will* pass.

If your hand isn't strong enough for a game, a good rule of thumb is to bid to the number of combined trump you have. So if partner opens 2H, and you have 2 hearts, you have an 8 card fit, so it is safe to be at the level where you need 8 tricks, i.e. 2H. So don't raise.  With 3 card support, raise partner to 3H. With 4 card support you can raise to 4H.

Also - when raising partner's preempt, it is almost always right to do it right away - raise as high as you are willing to at your first bid, and then pass if the opponents bid any higher.

2C Openers

Responding

With a good 5+ card suit (2 of top 3 honors) and 8+ points, you can bid your suit. (2H/2S/3C/3D). With a strong balanced hand, you can bid 2N. Any of these bids are game forcing, and it is likely that you will end up in slam.

With almost all hands you want to respond 2D.

Opener now describes her hand. 2N shows a balanced hand with 22-24 points. (too strong for 2N, too weak to open 3N).  3N shows a balanced hand with 28+ points.  (opening 3N shows 25-27) Systems are on, just as if they had opened NT (but with a different point range, of course)

Any other bid is natural and forcing. After an auction that starts:

2C   2D

 ?(not no trump)

all bids below game are forcing except a raise of a naturally bid suit.

2C   2D

2H   3H  not forcing

2C  2D

2H  2S

3H   not forcing

2C  2D

2H  2S

3C  3S  not forcing

All other bids (below game) are forcing. Even if you have 0 points!!!!  Remember, as responder, you only need about 3-4 points to force to game. Partner might be happy going to game even if you have 0, so respect this rule.

Other Conventions

You should really be comfortable with everything above here before playing the following conventions. And if you do want to play them, make sure you keep them straight. If you think you will get Michael's Cue Bid and Unusual No Trump mixed up - don't play them. It is better to not play a convention than to get it wrong. (and let partner know to not bid them.)

Michael's Cue Bid

Bidding the opponent's suit at your first opportunity, when neither you nor your partner has bid anything.  Over a minor it shows 5-5 in the majors. Over a major it shows 5-5 in the other major and an undisclosed minor. (partner bids 2N to ask which minor).  ex.

1H  2H  P   ?  (shows spades and a minor)

Unusual NT

Jumping to 2N over the opponent's 1 level bid at your first opportunity, when neither you nor your partner has bid anything. Shows 5-5 in the two lower unbid suits.  ex.

1H  2N  P  ?  (shows clubs and diamonds)

Blackwood 

A bid of 4N (when you aren't bidding NT naturally) asks for aces. 5C = 0 or 4, 5D = 1, etc.  If your side has all 4 aces, you can ask for kings by next bidding 5N. (only if you bid 4N originally)

Note - over NT, 4N is "quantitative" i.e. invitational to slam, but not forcing.

Gerber

over NT, a *jump* to 4C is ace asking.  4D = 0 or 4, 4H = 1, etc.  ex.

1N  P  4C  P

 ?

If there has been a bunch of bidding and then someone on your side bids 3N and partner bids 4C, this is natural and not Gerber. It is only ace asking if it was a jump to 4C over a natural NT bid.